On the 2nd of August 2015 Ivailo Radkov – Fazata climbed the first unconfirmed 9a located in Prohodna cave, Karlukovo, Bulgaria.
Bolted by himself and Boiko Lalov in 2007 the line is 50m long. Half of it follows the steep roof of the cave after which it finishes through one of the eyes of God.
When asked about the grade of the route Fazata explains:
“The first part is a solid 8c+ (35m of 8a finishing with a 7c boulder problem), after the chain it is 8b+ until the top. I think all together this makes a 9a.” Fazata also shared he has never made so many attempts on a project, certainly over 40 as he recalls.
The battle for the first Bulgarian 9a lasts around half an hour and is watched by many climbers and non-climbing spectators. Before the last boulder Fazata makes a 10 minutes no hands rest after which he completes the final moves applauded by the crowd below.
Congratulations to Ivailo Radkov – Fazata for accomplishing this historical first ascent and giving us the first Bulgarian 9a!
ONWARD AND UPWARD!
This article was written by Nikolay Petkov from climbingguidebg.com and translated in English by Balkan Vagabondz’ team. The photos were kindly provided by Yanne Golev.